FROM AX TO LIMPA DIRECTLY AT THE SEA
He has left Varberg and come back. The chef who chose to spread freshly baked scent over Varberg harbor. We met Niklas Gustafsson at the Coast Bakery and talked about his love for ports, how close everything is in Halland and why Varberg is so fantastic in the autumn.
We sit outside the Coast Bakery in Varberg harbor, where seagulls dominate the air and a steady flow of customers buy bread while we talk. The combination of the gulls' screams, the sea, a warm sea breeze, freshly baked bread and a cup of coffee should be able to win some kind of prize in well-being. That may in itself be a partial view of a West Coast resident, but I don't think so. Niklas develops my own inner feeling.
“I have some kind of fabless for ports. It is the last outpost in some way and from here you can get everywhere. It's a bit of an adventure over there. ”
Star chef in Stockholm
After leaving the city he grew up in after the military service, there were both foreigners as a UN soldier, trips around the world and studies in Grythyttan. He has always had a food interest and a lot of food was cooked at home during his childhood. Perhaps this was what made the cook church in Stockholm his existence for so many years. However, in 2008 he was back in Varberg and in the spring of the following year the gates to the Coast Bakery were opened.
PHOTO: CAROLINE ANDERSSON
Thus, for eleven years, Niklas Gustafsson, the wolf son who saw the world and came back, together with his wife Jenny, operated the bakery which has become such a big part of both wolfhouses and long-distance visitors' hearts - and stomachs.
"A lot has changed since the start," says Niklas. “Our customers are so much more aware of what choices they make today and what they put in themselves. People react when there are e-substances in food and I think that awareness benefits us who do things from scratch ", he continues.
Our customers are so much more aware of what choices they are making today and what they are stopping in themselves.
The scent that dominates the spicy spring air outside the bakery comes naturally from all the bread baked. About 2,7 tonnes of bread leave the bakery in paper bags every week and everything is sold over the counter. Everything from rustic sourdough bread and breakfast plates to stone oven baked bread and cardamom buns and pain au chocolat.
Niklas believes that even their own influences have changed over the years.
"When I came to Lebanon or Damascus as a UN soldier, a whole new world opened up. The first time I tasted hummus was an incredible experience and at that time you had to go to great lengths to get that inspiration, you do not need that today. Now the inspiration is closer. ”
The inspiration he aims for is, among other things, proximity to producers and the way they work. Finding small strawberry stands, producers and collaborations around Halland with the same thinking as themselves. Such cooperation is with Limabacka mill in Väröbacka, which delivers about 60 tonnes of flour a year to the bakery.
PHOTO: CAROLINE ANDERSSON
We have had customers who can see rye fields from their home and who have then been able to eat the bread baked on it. Then it becomes concrete and real in some way.
One of the farmers whose cereals will be flour at Limabacka is Johnny Svensson. His cereal grows about two km from the bakery, is transported to the mill and becomes flour which in the bakery then becomes fantastic sourdough bread, pizza or maybe apricot bread. From ear to loaf within about 2,5 miles distance.
“We have had customers who can see rye fields from their homes and who have then been able to eat the bread that is baked on it. Then it becomes concrete and real in some way. If I compare with when I worked in Stockholm, here you have a completely different close contact with the growers and millers, which in turn has given me a much greater understanding and insight into how it works. And I think that is reflected in what we do. ”
A constant development
Niklas says that that inspiration creates a drive for them. That you constantly learn new things together and how great the desire to be better is there all the time. How they can look back on things they have done for a long time and even if it was good then, they had not done the same today. The fact that they have come as far and developed as bakers and people is reflected in Coast Bakery's customers.
PHOTO: CAROLINE ANDERSSON
"I think our customers trust us," says Niklas. “We can do almost anything and people are curious and buy it. We have worked into some form of security with the customers and people expect a high quality. It's great fun to meet our regulars or see the breakfast gangs that are seen every week. We have become a gathering place for many, you could say. In addition, at all possible ages and it is very fun ", he continues.
Nowadays, the arrival of autumn means an extension of the season with many activities.
Autumn is welcome
"The last outpost, then the adventure". Of course you understand what Niklas means. That may be true of Halland, not just Varberg. As if everything comes to its extremes as soon as the sea is present. Maybe it will be even more apparent there on the quay when the fall comes. Since the rather tangible summer end meant a winter hibernation, the arrival of autumn now means an extension of the season with lots of activities and a completely different interest in what is happening among customers and visitors.
Maybe they stop cooks with wolf attachment that will work in the bakery this summer, even in the fall. And does their presence mean that the Coastal Bakery will serve pure dishes?
"Well," says Niklas. “We make sandwiches and maybe pizza at some point, so we'd rather go for the food side than the fitness side. I do not think it is fun with cakes. We are a pure bakery and the only time we whip cream is when it's bread season, ”he continues.
The quay, the seagulls, the bread. Yes, you know all that. If you are a culinary person, however, I would like to say that the adventure, it already starts at the Coastal Bakery.
NIKLAS SMULTRONSTELLE IN HALLAND
"Mayas by the sea in Apelviken! A late summer evening with live music, good beer and really good organic and locally produced food is hard to beat! ”
ABOUT THE COAST BAKERY
At the quay in Varberg, sourdough bread is baked on organic flour from Limabacka mill in Väröbacka. Here baked and sold sourdough bread such as Levain, Roasted rye and chestnut honey, apricot bread with fruits and nuts, Dill- and Västerbotten and much more.
Also breakfast rolls, baguettes, dumplings, Danish rye bread, croissants, brioche and sweet breads such as cinnamon and cardamom buns, pastry, mazarines, pain au chocolat, wallon buns, Catalans and spandau.
In addition, leaven courses are organized!
The coastal bakery shares their goodies through the popular Instagram account @kustbageriet